One of my favorite places to visit in Italy is Portofino, located on the Italian Riviera in the metropolitan city of Genoa. It is a quaint seaside fishing village, and it features rows of color-coordinated homes that line the harbor. Portofino (unlike most of Italy) is renowned for its exquisite landscape more than its history. Portofino's sites include the Portofino Harbor, Museo Del Parco, Castello Brown, The Church of Saint George, The Lighthouse, and Hotel Splendido.

Walk Through Portofino With Us

The first week of October is sunny and about 75 degrees, and it is a perfect time to be in Portofino. Henry plans a two-day trip to Portofino for my birthday. We drive from Genoa, stopping for coffee in a great little city called Santa Margarita. It is a favorite of the locals and has immaculate beaches. Notably, Santa Margarita has some sandy beaches ( not typical of many beaches in this region).

We arrive in Portofino and stroll through a small commercial area scattered with tourist shops and local artisan boutiques. High-end designer shops appear as we approach the harbor. However, at this point, we bypass the shops and head straight for the most famous port in the world.

The Portofino Harbor

We reach the harbor's main square and take in the panoramic view of the famed pastel-painted homes. The eclectic display of small boats fills the port while yachts take turns pulling into the dock.

The east side of the harbor walkway, known as Calata Marconi, is predictably lined with shops and restaurants. As we stroll down Calata Marconi's shaded walkway, we delight in the harbor's cluster of boats and the abundance of bougainvillea along the path. We indulge in gelato, buy a pair of sunglasses, and discover some great photo opportunities.

Museo del Parco

While walking along the harbor, we stumble upon a colossal rhino sculpture sitting just above the entrance to Museo del Parco. We have found Portofino's open-air museum with several statues and lovely harbor views. This experience is 5 euros and lasts 10 minutes. If you have the time and want to see a funky collection of sculptures, this is worth the visit.

Castello Brown

Atop the hill is Castello Brown. During Roman times, it was a military fortress. During the German occupation of Italy, it was a prison. Today, it serves the community as a venue for special events and exhibitions. The Castle has some interesting interior architecture, but the path that takes us there is most memorable.

We access Castello Brown from the main square. Tours are available, but we choose to take our time and venture independently. The views are breathtaking, and the paths have shade due to clusters of cypress trees and pergolas covered in bougainvillea. Along the cobblestone path are scattered areas with benches and small courtyards. Although there are many steps, it is an easy walk, probably taking about 30 minutes. The steps are not steep, and the harbor views are stunning. Trust me; the walk is well worth the effort.

The Lighthouse & The Church of Saint George

Once we reach the top of the hill, we see signs for two paths—one for the Lighthouse and another for the Church of Saint George. The path to the Lighthouse is about 7 minutes. The Lighthouse is fully operational and entirely powered by solar energy. As we approach the Lighthouse, we follow the signs to Al Faro. Al Faro Bar/Lounge sits on the backside of the Lighthouse and seemingly hangs off a cliff. Again, we experience more fantastic views of the Ligurian Sea.

Al Faro has only a few tables, and the menu is light, mainly sandwiches and drinks. I order a local glass of wine, and Henry enjoys an espresso. Al Faro Bar/Lounge is a must-see in Portofino. Be sure to check the hours as they have changed since Covid.

We head back from the Lighthouse and towards the Church of St. George. It is a small, yellow church with an exciting history and (unlike most churches in Italy) a somewhat ordinary interior. Through the centuries, St George has encountered many rebirths. The most recent rebuild was in 1950, due to being bombed in WW2. We walk just beyond the church, discover the Portofino cemetery (which we find interesting), and head back to the main square.

Hotel Splendido Belmond

During the '50s and '60s, Hollywood discovers Portofino and its jewel in the crown; Hotel Splendido. Legend has it that Hotel Splendido is the spot where Rex Harrison throws his Oscar into the harbor during a night of partying and where Richard Burton proposes to Liz Taylor.

During our second day in Portofino, we visit Hotel Splendido. Hotel Splendido is located high up on a hill, overlooking the bay of Portofino. During the 16th century, originally a monastery, it became abandoned due to the constant invasion of pirates. Transformed into a hotel in 1902, it remains one of the top hotels worldwide.

We can feel the ambiance the moment we step onto this property. Henry engages the concierge, who takes us on a brief tour through the hotel. Afterward, we walk through the meticulously manicured gardens and enjoy several paths along the hotel perimeter.

We have a late lunch on the terrace at La Terrazza Restaurant. It is easy to understand why this is one of the most mesmerizing hotels globally. The cuisine is excellent, and the service is impeccable. I order the regional favorite of pesto pasta and a glass of local wine. Henry selects a homemade linguini pasta topped with black truffles.

The View From La Terrazza

High up on the hill, our table at La Terrazza awaits. The waiter ushers us to our table, which offers a surreal panorama view of Portofino Bay. Regardless of the legendary celebrity status of Hotel Splendido, the lush and rugged landscape of Portofino is still the main event.

"We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us" Anonyomous

The sea breeze blows gently, and a faint trail of foam briefly interrupts the still waters below. From my seat, the yachts appear miniature and insignificant. It is impossible to be anywhere but here—no phones or appointments, just present in this moment—La dolce vita.

At least once in your lifetime, you must visit Portofino.

Italy - Portofino Remains One Of My Most Memorable Visits