What Makes Capri So Special
What makes Capri special? And, what is there to do once you get here?
During our first visit to Capri, my husband, Mr.Travel, and I asked ourselves the same questions. It took a couple of trips, but we fell in love with this island once we spent a few nights there.
We had gotten off to a late start on our first trip, so we only had a few hours to visit. We took a quick private boat over and did "touristy" things that included shopping, snapping pictures, and eating gelato at the Piazzetta. In Capri, the shopping ranges from local artisan jewelry pieces to high-end designer labels.
Here is an overview of our experiences and what we learned after a few visits to this fantastic island.
Getting To Capri
Because it's an island, you can only arrive by boat or helicopter. By boat you have two options; private boat or ferry.
Our Experience By Private Boat
I mentioned the boat ride earlier, and frankly, it was the best part of our first trip. We rented a boat (with a captain) in Positano, piled the kids inside a seven-seat inflatable dinghy, and set sail to Capri.
This dinghy was fast, and we cut through the choppy water like a sharp pair of scissors. The wind blew through our hair, and foam trailed behind us as we raced toward our destination. The boat ride was exciting!
Our skipper was happy to slow down for some quick photographs of the picturesque coastline. As we approached some of the caves, he stopped, allowing us to jump in the water and swim through some of the open caves. The water is as blue as the sky and cold as ice. Our poor daughter was sick from the bumpy ride, but she hung in like a trooper. We took this trip in late September, and the sea was a little choppy. Typically, the sea is flat during June and July.
Here you can also pay to enter the Blue Grotto. You can purchase tickets at the floating ticket booth near the entrance to the cave. Admission to the cave is only possible by utilizing small rowboats provided at the cave. You cannot swim inside the Blue Grotto. It is too dangerous to swim here, and if you get caught, it is a very steep fine. You can also get to this attraction from Capri.
More on Renting Private Boats To Capri
There are many options for renting private boats. You can rent a dinghy, a yacht, and everything in between. We stayed in Positano, so we rented a boat from our favorite supplier Lucibello https://www.lucibello.it/it. You can get private boats of all shapes and sizes in numerous places along the Amalfi coast. Most of the boat tours will break so that you can stop and photograph or take a swim. Your boat may not have a bathroom, so consider wearing a bathing suit and bring a change of clothes for Capri.
Getting To Capri By Ferry
Ferries depart from several destinations, including Naples, Positano, Sorrento, Amalfi, Salerno, and Ischia.
Ferries are fantastic because they run all day long during the season, and they are highly dependable. Additionally, for a small fee, you can bring baggage. A ferry is probably a better option than a private boat if you have motion sickness. When we rented a private boat to Capri, I took the ferry from Capri back to Positano with my daughter because she got sick on the dinghy.
This site posts ferry schedules and helpful information such as which side to sit on for the best coastline views https://www.ravello.com/ferry-schedule/.
Capri by Helicopter
There is no airport in Capri, so the only way to arrive by air is by Helicopter. This mode of travel often transports people to Capri from longer distances, such as Rome. However, you can arrange transport from many locations. You may even want to take a helicopter tour of the Amalfi coast. Several companies offer Helicopter transport; here is just one https://www.capri-helicopters.com/en/index.
What To See And Do In Capri
Main Beaches-
The two main beaches in Capri are Marina Grande and Marina Piccola. Several small beaches are scattered around the island, but these are the main ones.
Marina Grande is considered the best beach for families and swimming. Located just beyond the main port, you can step off the ferry and go directly to this beach. Marina Grande has shallow water, and refreshment stands just beyond the main port.
Marina Piccola is on the opposite side of Marina Grande. To reach this beach, you can take a 15 walk down from the city center of Capri or take a public bus. Get here early, as the sun moves behind the hills by 5:00. If you arrive very early, you can see the sunrise.
Additional Smaller Beaches
Palazzo a Mare is a great family beach just a short distance to the west of Marina Grande. It has both public and private rocky shores and a restaurant.
Bagni di Tiberio lies on the island's Northside, and it is the most popular beach club. The beachfront is very small, with pebbles and sand, and has a restaurant and restrooms.
Ana Capri has a tiny beach near the Blue Grotto, accessible by bus. You can access the Blue Grotto from the dock here.
Walk the Landscape
On our second trip to Capri, Henry and I had much more time to explore the landscape and architecture. We walked along the Via Tragara pedestrian pathway for seven miles! Here we found great uninterrupted views and numerous photo opportunities. Here are some pictures we took during our walk.
The Gardens of Agustus is an excellent stop while walking through Capri. It is full of botanical gardens with sculptures and fantastic views from the terraces.
Visit Ana Capri, which is accessible by bus and is known for the historical Villa San Michele. Here you will also find magnificent panoramic views of the island. Ana Capri has quaint plazas with family-operated restaurants and local artisan shops.
To get the best view of Capri, visit Monte Solaro. In Monte Solaro, you can enjoy magnificent views from the highest peak in Capri by gliding along in a single-seater chair lift that runs for about 15 minutes.
To get the full flavor of Capri, take some time to hang out at the Piazzetta, Capri's "most lively area." This bustling square is the perfect daytime people-watching espresso-drinking place on the island.
After all the tourists leave, Capri takes on an entirely different vibe. Take your seat at the Piazzetta, and wait for the parade of well-dressed, sophisticated locals who gather to meet up for dinner, drinks, and an evening at Taverna Anema e Core, Capri's famous nightclub.
Nightlife
Taverna Anema e Core is Capri's trendy nightclub/tavern. The owner leads the band, often singing traditional Neopolitan songs. The pub does not open till after midnight and typically has long lines to get in. There is a cover charge of 50 euros per person (which includes one drink). After the first drink, all drinks run about 20 euros each. The nightclub runs in full swing till 4:00 AM. For more information https://www.anemaecore.com.
Food
Capri has many good places to eat. During the day, we would eat light, stop and have espresso, then grab a gelato. We were introduced to a local by a friend back in the U.S. He turned us on to great restaurants.
The first night we ate at Panorama Restorante (located just past the post office). This restaurant had great views overlooking the Bay of Naples and, of course, great food. We would have never found this place had it not been for the direction of our new friend.
On our last night, we ate at E Divino, a restaurant that was once a home. We ate in the backyard in the garden. It was amazing! Unfortunately, I am not sure if it is still open after covid. I mention this experience only to make the point that if you want to find the best food in any tourist area in Italy, you must ask a local.
If you want to try the #1 restaurant in Capri, check out Ristorante da Gemma https://www.dagemma.com.
Hotels
After spending three days in Capri, and a lot of time exploring the city, I felt that every hotel on the island looked five-star. I did not see a hotel that I would not stay at. We stayed two nights/three days in Capri at the Grand Hotel Quisisana, one of Capri's premier hotels. It is located in the historic city center, just steps from the Piazzetta and the high-end shopping zone.
Capri also has many B&B's and AirBnB's available year-round spread throughout the island.
Here is Henry, enjoying an espresso at the Quisisana (one of my favorite pics).
Here I am, leaving Capri (one of Henry's favorite pics).
We loved our stay in Capri. The location of our hotel Quisisana allowed us to hang out at the Piazzetta and mix with the visitors and the islanders. There is such a sophisticated elegance to this place, and it grows on you.
Put Capri on your bucket list. If you want to discover how special this island is - forget the day trip. Book a few nights and experience the true essence of Capri.
See you at the sea,